Le Comptoir

We had another meal at Gary Menes' pop-up over the weekend and it convinced us that he is one of the best vegetarian chefs in Los Angeles. Sure, Menes can cook meat too–his braised veal was excellent–but it was an austere presentation of winter vegetables that stole the show. Beets, radishes, fennel, potatoes, parsnips, greens and more, all individually cooked, were laid out on the plate. A riot of colors, flavors and textures, it's one of the most exciting dishes we've tried recently. Vegetables: they need not be boring.