Field Trip: Rockaway Taco

Sun, fun and a feast of fish tacos

Rockaway Beach isn't super posh but it's closer, and cooler, than the Hamptons. And it's got Rockaway Taco.

Andrew Field, who lived in Puerta Vallarta for years, makes simple food here with a lot of soul. The little white shack that hides the kitchen is tiny, and so is the menu, but you can't go wrong.

So ride the A train, hop the shuttle and, in just over an hour, you'll be among stretches of quiet, beautiful beach. Leave home early and plan for an extremely delicious breakfast of chilaquiles (9 – 11 a.m. only, $3).

Pineapple-mint juice | Baby radishes and pickles

At lunchtime, you'll find fish tacos ($3.50) made with crisp tilapia. They're garnished simply with shredded cabbage, radish and cilantro, and you'll realize, when you take a bite, they don't need anything else.

Fresh juices, like pineapple-mint ($4), are just the thing if you've been bronzing on the beach for too long. And don't miss the paper baskets of fried sweet plantains with darkly caramelized edges, sprinkled with just enough cotija cheese and served with a wedge of lime ($3).

Rockaways > Hamptons

The boardwalk, a block away, is still a work in progress–along with the rest of the shoreline, it was totally pummelled by Hurricane Sandy.

But the beach is open and gorgeous, and a bunch of food stalls at Rockaway Beach 97 are up and running this weekend: Breezy's BBQ is slinging pulled pork and smoked brisket sandwiches ($7-8), a satellite from Uma's, a beloved Uzbeki restaurant in the neighborhood, has piroshkis and kebabs. And Justin Harter of CitySticks, better known for his ice pops, has a new ice cream parlor (hello, waffle sundaes).

A few blocks down at Rockaway Beach 86, Rippers is griddling cheeseburgers ($6.50) and pouring lemonade ($2.50), while Caracas Arepa Bar grills corn arepas ($7-9) and mixes frozen drinks.

The Rockaways are in full effect.

Ride the subway out to the Rockaways and you'll find more than a quiet beach–Andrew Field's taco shop, Rockaway Taco, serves some of the most delicious, summery snacks we know. Don't forget to bring cash–it's cash only.

The tiny white shack draws locals, surfers and in-the-know day-trippers from the city.

Fish frying to-order for tacos.

The menu is tiny, but you can't go wrong.

The fish taco is a thing of beauty: crisp, hot tilapia fried to-order, shredded cabbage, sliced radishes and cilantro.

Don't be fooled by the simple facade, Rockway Taco has got it going on.

For the vegetarians, tofu tacos made with a lot of care, loaded with extra guacamole.

Fresh juices–such as pineapple-mint–are just the thing after a day at the beach.

People get their snack on outside the shop on Rockaway Boulevard.

Gorgeous baby radishes (from Rockaway Urban Farm) and pickles.