Classic Table: Franny's

A decade in, we're still heading to Flatbush Ave. for their pies

Bubbling. Blistered. Charred. And straight-up good.

In a town where hipster pie shops open faster than you can say "margherita," there's comfort in knowing that some places just keep doing it right year after year.

Franny's is a decade old, but it doesn't feel that way. Maybe it's because it moved into new, bigger, brighter digs on the Park Slope side of Flatbush last year. Maybe it's because it still buzzes with families on a "night out" and first dates cautiously sipping Negronis at the tiled bar.

Or maybe it's simply because their straightforward pies still have the power to delight: A superlative basil and buffalo mozzarella number ($17) has just a slick of no-frills, unadulterated tomato sauce; the famous clam pizza ($18) is flecked with chiles with just the right dough-to-topping ratio.

Franny's has always been special because the rest of the menu isn't an afterthought: On a recent visit, a starter of oven-roasted parsnips walked the line between rustic and elegant; a dish of fried lemons paired with buffalo mozzarella and nubs of olives had balance and surprising finesse. Pastas, like the bucatini with Meyer lemon, chiles and a sprinkling of bottarga, are deceptively simple but ridiculously delicious.

The infamous clam pie at Franny's

The new location may lack some of the cozy warmth of the original (though we're happy to go to their slightly tonier spinoff Marco's), but never mind: You'll often find us holed up at a two-top there on Sunday afternoons or Wednesday nights or whenever a pie or two on the table and a glass of Lambrusco in hand feels exactly right. Which is to say: Pretty much always.