Cholita Linda Restaurant Temescal Oakland Tacos Pan-Latin | Tasting Table San Francisco

Cholita Linda is now an all-day taco shop

Until last month, Sundays were always fish taco day.

That was when you could hit up Cholita Linda's stand at the Temescal farmers' market.

For the past few years, Murat Sozeri and Vanessa Chavez have been building a permanent restaurant on Telegraph Ave., not far from their core fan base.

Now that Cholita Linda is open, the crowds swell to the brick-and-mortar at noon and six o'clock, leaving their totes filled with carrots and kale at home. The restaurant is designed for daylight savings time, with windows as tall as giraffes and a dining room laid out like picnic grounds.

Chavez can make a better claim than most that her "pan-Latin" tacos, sandwiches and entrées come out of personal experience. After all, her mom is Peruvian and her father, Mexican-Cuban.

Cholita Linda's Cuban sandwich

Which explains in part the Cuban sandwich ($9.95), its exterior crisp and shiny from the press grill, its interior with layers of ham, carnitas, Swiss cheese and pickles. A rush of cumin accompanies the roast pork, as well as a jolt of sharp mustard.

But at least one order of the fish tacos is a must ($7 for two). The breading on the fish stays crunchy until the last bite. While the shredded cabbage and drizzles of crema over the top are welcome, the reason we return for her tacos is the smear of chiles and spices underneath.

Best of all, rain won't change our dining plans.