Bull Market

B.o.s. goes nose-to-tail in Little Tokyo

Yakiniku (Japanese BBQ) is being taken to daring new heights in Little Tokyo–and that's no bull.

Restaurateur Jun Isogai–who helped launch Men Oh Tokushima Ramen–and chef David Bartnes have opened B.o.s. (named for the Latin root of "bull"), a sleek open-kitchen bistro focused on cuts of cow.

"In Japan, cooking 'nose-to-tail' is expected," says Isogai, "we wanted to expand that mindset into modern Asian cooking."

The meat-heavy menu highlights an array of overlooked cuts, from tender miso-marinated beef heart grilled over Binchotan charcoal ($13) to tempura-fried calf brain with curried butternut squash ($14).

Roasted bone marrow with furikake

It is likely, however, that in B.o.s.' best dishes you won't notice the offal at all. Strips of honeycomb tripe, hidden inside a cauldron of fiery kimchi stew ($14), are cooked until they become supple, interspersed with soft spheres of scallion gnocchi. Another highlight is the Flintstonian hunk of bone-in short rib ($24) rubbed with chilies and cumin and served over a bed of ginger-sautéed kale.

Herbivores aren't left out entirely: A section of the menu is devoted to superb vegetable dishes, like green beans tossed with sambal ($8) or sake-braised kabocha squash ($8).

Rest assured, Bartnes doesn't neglect the fancier cuts. The thick bone-in rib eye ($50), dry-aged for a month and spooned with shiitake bordelaise, is the stuff of expense account steakhouses.

As he sees it, there is a cut for every occasion.