Cheap Thrills : Taco Love | An Epic Ode To The California Burrito In Hollywood | Tasting Table Los Angeles

When David Modelo, Marko Velazquez and Paul Kot met while working for Umami Restaurant Group, they agreed on two things: First, San Diego-style Mexican food was the best thing ever (Modelo and Velazquez both grew up near Chula Vista); second, there was far too little of it in L.A.

With that in mind the trio opened Taco Love, a splashy taqueria in Hollywood modeled after the beachside stands down south. Paramount on the menu is the Cali Burrito ($7).

Taco Love's wall of art

In San Diego surf culture, the California Burrito is sacrosanct, a carb-loaded vehicle suited to fight hunger after a day at the beach. At Taco Love, the regional specialty is done great justice: It's a hefty bundle of charred carne asada, French fries, cheddar cheese and sour cream. Guacamole can–and should–be added for a dollar extra.

Paper-wrapped tacos ($2), spooned with more guacamole, are fine too, especially those made with adobado, marinated pork shaved from a rotating spit.

At communal tables, twin squirt bottles of salsa–one red, one green–are passed freely as heavy G-funk tracks blast overhead. In burrito stand tradition, Taco Love is open until 2:30 a.m. on weekends–and it can get packed.

"This is the place you where want to end your night," says Modelo with a grin, "though you could also just stay here and drink Micheladas."