Neighborhood Watch: Chinatown | Tasting Table Los Angeles

Big things are afoot in little Chinatown.

With equal parts kitsch and culture, L.A.'s oldest and most storied neighborhood is becoming a dining destination again, jump-started in part by the relocation of Roy Choi's Chego to Far East Plaza a few months ago.

On Hill Street, stop by the semi-hidden Melody Lounge, a former karaoke dive that has revamped into a lantern-strewn craft beer haven by the owners of Westlake's Monty Bar. A dozen taps pour local brews from the likes of Angel City, Cismontane and The Bruery ($6 to $8), while a lengthy fridge case holds a collection of more obscure beers.

Nguyen and Thi Tran with Korean-style chicken wings

Nguyen and Thi Tran, the boisterous husband-and-wife team behind the Asian pop-up Starry Kitchen, are now calling the former Grand Star Jazz Club home from Wednesday through Sunday. Start with a basket of piping-hot crispy tofu balls ($6), then move on to bolder dishes such as X.O. fried rice with house-cured pork belly ($15) or Singapore chili crab with beer beignets ($MP)–provided they don't sell out first.

Slip in for a late-night drink at 643 North, a slick Italian restaurant with a bar program by Far Bar alum Adam Acuff. Classic Italian cocktails like the Cardinale ($10)–made with gin, dry vermouth and Campari–whet your appetite before the crisp smoked salmon pizza lands, topped with pesto and goat cheese ($18).