Salt Air

Salt Air sets new trends for stylish Abbot Kinney

The sense of fashion is palpable at Venice's new "beach bistro" Salt Air.

There's the sharply dressed, elbow-to-elbow clientele, the stark white brick dining room and the dainty, homespun small plates from chef Greg Daniels, who left New York's Perry St for the sunny shores of California.

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On almost every table you'll find the restaurant's best accessory: a bowl of crunchy fish-skin chips ($6). Daniels' seafaring riff on chicharon is served with creamy smoked onion dip and zesty harissa paste.

The vibrant green freshness of the pea toast ($11) turns heads; Daniels dresses a thick slice of pain de mie with caramelized onions, ricotta and a tangle of crushed English peas and their tendrils.

But the real showstopper may be the cocktails: Bar manager Brian Butler brilliantly sidesteps the space's lack of a full liquor license with his refreshing aperitif-based drinks.

The "Tiki" ($11), made with Cocchi Rosa Americano, orgeat, angostura, lime and pineapple, glows a deep, summery red, while the highly aromatic "Sour" ($11) mixes Byrrh with Punt e Mes and puréed strawberries.

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Now that's a trend we can get used to.

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