Classic Tables: Taylor's Steakhouse

Scotch, steaks and sweet prices for more than 60 years

They don't make steakhouses like Taylor's anymore.

A relic of the era of the two-martini lunch, this Koreatown restaurant has survived and thrived for six-plus decades, with its dark wood, Naugahyde booths and mellow jazz on the speakers intact.

Though it's not L.A.'s only beef-focused landmark to have passed the test of time, Taylor's is the one historic establishment whose bargain prices have remained as nostalgic as the d├ęcor.

Surprisingly affordable slabs of steer are skillfully cooked and presented without fuss: pink rounds of prime rib ($27) with horseradish cream; dry-aged culotte steak ($30); and filet mignon ($25) smothered in sweet onions.

The top prize for value, though, might go to the robust Kansas City sirloin ($23). Flame-broiled with a slightly charred crust, it arrives ruby red, decadently juicy and topped with a pat of herbed butter.

Potent garlic bread ($4), asparagus drenched in Hollandaise ($7), or cream-whipped mashed potatoes ($4) are all solid accompaniments. The chilled shrimp cocktail ($15), served with a flourish in glass stemware, is a sight to behold. No less important: The bartenders know how to stir a fine Manhattan.

Sink into the dining room at Taylor's for a taste of the good old days. Fortunately, you don't need an expense account to do so.