Beefing Up

Top Round Roast Beef slices up fast-food nostalgia

Curly fries, frozen custard and roast beef sandwiches.

That's basically the menu at Top Round Roast Beef, a retro fast-food restaurant that recently debuted inside a Googie-style former doughnut shop on La Brea and Olympic.

Chef Anthony Carron (800 Degrees) and business partner Noah Ellis (Red Medicine) modeled it after the quality Midwestern roast-beef chains from Carron's youth. So that means Top Round's hand-cut fries are cooked in beef fat, the custards are thick "concretes," and the sandwiches are made from USDA Choice top round, roasted for 12 hours and topped with sauces like horseradish cream or house-made "cheese wizz."

Their winning formula is equal parts Shake Shack and Arby's. To save you time, we painstakingly researched the most harmonious sweet-and-savory topping pairings.

Horse & Hole ($6) with a Blueberry Pie Concrete ($5)

Fruit and vegetables are scant here: Alternate bites of the melted Provel cheese, beef and sautéed mushroom sandwich with bites of concrete mixed with crushed blueberries and streusel. You know, for the antioxidants. 

Beef on Weck ($5) with a Strawberry-Pistachio Milkshake ($3)
The classic from Upstate New York pairs au jus-dipped beef with "atomic" horseradish on a caraway-and-salt-topped kummelweck roll. Soothe the nasal burn with the fruit-blasted creaminess of a pink-and-green (Christmas in July) shake.

Dirty Fries ($4) with a Hawaiian Sundae ($5)

Try a taste of 1950's: crispy fries smothered in rib-sticking gravy, cheese and caramelized onions, with a tropical-tasting frozen custard showered in bananas, pineapple, coconut and nuts. Aloha!