Royally Good

Soho's Little Prince makes a splendid steak

A public service announcement from us to chef Paul Denamiel: Please, don't quit your day job.

When we begged him to give us a window into what makes his 28-day dry-aged Creekstone Farms New York strip steak at Soho's new Little Prince so darn tasty, he declared, "Look, all I know how to do is feed people."

Fine by us, as long as he keeps his 14-ounce steak au poivre ($38) on the menu.

Denamiel was loath to share his secrets, but did let us in on a couple hints.

Denamiel's access to the best product is unparalleled–his family is Pat LaFreida's oldest customer, having owned restaurants for four generations. To flavor the mineral-rich strip, Denamiel uses a recipe he has honed for the last 30 years, and rests the cooked meat on a bed of pink, black and white peppercorns. He uses all of those, plus green peppercorns, Cognac, red wine and cream, in the accompanying sauce.

Buffer bites of beef and sloshes of sauce with a triangle of pommes Anna ($7), at once crispy and smooth, like the love child of mashed potatoes and latkes, and great vinegary forkfuls of a frisée salad showered with Nueske's bacon ($12).

Finally, to celebrate a meal done so well, end with fresh berries lounging in a simple footed glass of crème anglaise ($10).