Family-Style

Argentinean comfort food in Little Haiti

Brothers Cristian and Maximiliano Alvarez call their restaurant, Fiorito, "a little Argentinean shack."

The brick house is rough around the edges. Such is the charm of the newish spot in Little Haiti; the brothers predict the nearby Design District/Buena Vista dining crowds will soon seep into the neighborhood.

Maximiliano serves guests at the dozen or so mismatched tables. Cristian, who was chef de cuisine at The Dining Room, works in view of the diners. The Alvarez brothers grew up in Argentina, and their menu is informed by their family's cooking, with nods to Douglas Rodriguez's Nuevo Latino style.

Start with pumpkin soup ($5), loosely inspired by locro, an Argentinean national dish. The creamy soup gets a welcome tang from tomatoes added to the basic mirepoix.

Next, try lechón confit ($12) with Dijon-mustard mojo sauce; it is redolent with orange, garlic and oregano, and pickled red cabbage cuts through the extravagance of the pork. For traditionalists, skirt steak, or churrasco, is supple and juicy ($12). Pair it with a smooth 2012 Postales Del Fin Del Mundo Malbec ($35 for 750 ml).

Fiorito exudes earnest, youthful energy. What we have tasted so far has us wishing the Alvarez brothers success with their shack.