Mexican tacos in Soho at Antojería La Popular

Antojería La Popular

Regina Galvanduque has paid tribute to her mother in one of the most thoughtful ways we have ever encountered.

At the new Soho restaurant Antojería La Popular, the architect Galvanduque and her cohorts are celebrating the food of many of Mexico's 32 states. Because the Mexico City-born Galvanduque and her recently deceased mother used to travel regularly across Mexico, Antojería Popular is not merely delicious–it is an edible memory log.

There are 23 different small dishes available here, each encapsulating a Mexican state.

For the Guerrero, Galvanduque harnessed recollections of family beach vacations, wrapping tuna, serrano mayonnaise and mango in a thin round of jicama ($6) designed to mimic a tortilla. To highlight Sonora in Mexico's north, she followed her father's cooking lead and emulated his taco arabe ($6) in which bacon, shrimp, Chihuahua cheese and roasted poblanos are folded into a pita. In a hat tip to San Luis Potosí, a tostada ($6) is loaded with shredded chicken, lettuce, Mexican crema and salsa verde.

Every antojito we tried was delicious. Likewise, the sweets: Fany Gerson of La Newyorkina provides a variety of paletas ($8 for 3) and an inspired collection of Mexican candies ($8). Plus, there are a number of flavored hot chocolates ($4.50) available, each whisked with a traditional molinillo.

Madre would be proud.