Throw Me a Bone

Getting to the core of the matter at The Marrow

Harold Dieterle is an equal-opportunity cook.

Entering his new West Village restaurant, The Marrow, we had pinings of roasted beef bones, grilled bread and long-handled spoons.

There was certainly bovine marrow on the menu. But it was our encounter with tuna marrow that shifted our fantasy from land to the briny sea.

See, most fishmongers don't have the right equipment to break open fish bones, so it is rare to encounter fish marrow in a New York restaurant.

Ever the vanguard, Dieterle uses a band saw to liberate the marrow from tunas' spinal bones, freighting a bowl of garganelli ($15) with an aggressive tuna belly puttanesca sauce and the silky marrow. The dish is a siren song for an ocean lover's fish fantasy.

Even beef bones are graced with a touch of the oceanic: Roasted shins are plonked with nuggets of sea urchin, Meyer lemon aioli and a scattering of micro celery greens and fried potatoes ($16). 

One if by land, two if by sea–or, better still, order both.

The Marrow, 99 Bank St. (at Greenwich St.); 212-428-6000 or themarrownyc.com