Hot Mess

Sometimes, too much is just right

January is no time for resolutions. Why set ascetic eating goals when there are new burgers and hot dogs to eat?

Like the Cole Dog ($8) at the new 4505 Meats shop in the Mission. To celebrate the opening of the shop, Ryan Farr and company have concocted a series of dogs that one-up his legendary 'Zilla-style dog.

The Cole Dog, named after kitchen manager Cole Mayfield, is the signature bacon-studded hot dog smothered in thick chorizo queso (yes, made with Velveeta). It's then piled with Fritos and pickled onions. This may sound gross; it is actually life-affirmingly good. 4505 Meats Butcher Shop, 1909 Mission St. (at 15th St.); 415-525-4239 or 4505meats.com

Chris Kronner's KronnerBurger has finally morphed into a Sunday-through-Thursday pop-up, hosted in a midnight-dim side bar connected to Bruno's. His master burger ($11), perfected during his Bar Tartine days, is a fat patty of 21-day-aged chuck and trim from Magruder Ranch, so tender it threatens to collapse with every bite.

If the house-made dill pickles, grilled onions and cheddar mayonnaise on top seem too puritanical, Kronner will add a slab of quick-melting bone marrow ($4). [2014 UPDATE: Kronnerburger has closed.