Couped Up

The Tryst group makes it easy to stay put

The Coupe, Columbia Heights' sprawling new 24-hour hangout, would never fit into an Airstream camper.

The multipurpose venue from the team behind Tryst, Open City and The Diner packs in a cocktail lounge, a coffee bar and pastry shop, lounge sofas and easy chairs.

But the ambitious restaurant nails the comfort-food category, serving potpies, hearty sandwiches and pastas, along with an edible atlas of regional nods.

Chef Rob Theriot, a Louisiana native, has crafted a menu that turns the classics daring and unexpected. The chef seeds his smokehouse omelet ($11) with smoked cheddar and lusty Surryano ham, and jazzes up grilled cheese ($11) with a shock of house-made tomato jam.

Frog legs are maple-brined before they're crisped in the fryer and served Buffalo-style alongside blue cheese and apple ($12).

Garlic-parsley fries ($12) are poutine by another name. The signature spuds are layered with shredded short ribs, bubbling local cheese curds, caramelized onions and velveteen brown gravy, with bread-and-butter-style sliced jalapeƱos.

Before you leave, pick up a pastry for the next morning.

The Coupe, 3415 11th St. NW (between Park Rd. & Monroe St.); 202-290-3342 or thecoupedc.com