Seoul Sausage Company - Reality Victory - L.A.

No longer is Little Osaka strictly a destination for Japanese food.

The booming restaurant scene that hugs Sawtelle Boulevard has grown increasingly inclusive with the openings of burger-centric Plan Check and the Vietnamese restaurant Nong Lá Café. And this month saw the brick-and-mortar debut of Seoul Sausage Company, which comes to Little Osaka following a victorious season on the reality show The Great Food Truck Race.

Considering the onslaught of fat and sugar that dominates a meal at Seoul Sausage–which might consist of a gochujang-spiced pork link on a roll ($7), or gooey arancini-like fritters of kimchi-fried rice ($3)–it's no wonder the restaurant is a darling on television and in L.A. food circles.

Both brash and welcoming, the cooking tends toward the sweeter side of Korean cuisine, downplaying the spice and funk. Tender bites of lightly dredged and fried chicken ($8), dubbed "Da KFC," are tossed in a candy-apple-red glaze that's light on heat and vinegar; pickled strips of carrots provide a bit of zing and crunch.

Do the initials stand for "Korean-fried chicken"? Or is the Colonel's spirit being invoked?

The slab of cornbread served atop the chicken makes us think it's the latter.

Seoul Sausage Company, 11313 Mississippi Ave., West L.A.; 310-477-7739 or seoulsausage.com