Cheers to That

A night of seafood and sweets at RM Champagne Salon

First we were excited about the wine.

Now we're here to talk about everything else that happens on the table–on plates, ice-filled platters and lofted glass cake stands–at Randolph Street's new RM Champagne Salon.

This is a venue for delicate snacking. There's a gorgeous mosaic of multihued heirloom tomatoes, burrata and corn ($10), and two simple green salads. Small one- or two-bite dishes are largely seafood focused, like hamachi sashimi flavored by Espelette pepper and lime ($3), and salmon tartar with a touch of Sriracha aioli ($3). Look to lobster deviled eggs ($3) for an indulgence, or seared foie gras on buttery toast ($5).

Save some of your richness quota for dessert, especially for the raspberry soufflé ($10), its lofty ambitions deflated tableside by a scoop of ice cream and a handful of fresh raspberries.

Pair it with mignardises ($9 for six)–20 to choose from in all. These, and all baked goods, are the realm of pastry chef Nathaniel Meads, onetime head of Fritz Pastry. Here, as at Fritz, he veers from French to American, so a dessert tray should be divided accordingly: macarons, mini Paris-Brest, marshmallows and PB&J truffles.

RM Champagne Salon, 116 N. Green St.; 312-243-1199 or rmchampagnesalon.com