Del Ray Café - Homey And Delicious - D.C.

Exquisiteness has swerved toward the homey in Del Ray.

After years spent mastering fine French cuisine at Old Town's La Bergerie, Laurent Janowsky has embraced a homier vibe at his new Del Ray Café.

Janowsky's strategy began long before any guests glanced at their menus. The restaurateur refurbished a split-level home, creating a country-inspired retreat with sliding barn doors and a screened-in porch overlooking the yard. Inside, classic Gallic songs filter through the rooms while the kitchen–presided over by La Bergerie veteran Sylvain Tonello–prepares crusty baguettes, herb-speckled roast potatoes ($5) and thick, summery dishes of ratatouille ($5) from breakfast through dinner.

The day starts with buttery pains au chocolate ($3), or eggs flanked by rotisserie ham, potatoes and warm bread with goat cheese ($14). By dinner, the kitchen is preparing snails in garlicky butter ($6) and tender local rabbit loin ($27) with smoky bacon in a light thyme sauce.

You can easily recreate the experience at home: The Café's nightly carryout special ($17), available from 4 to 9 p.m., will send you home with a three-pound chicken, roasted potatoes and a warm baguette.

Del Ray Café, 205 E. Howell Ave., Alexandria; 703-717-9151 or delraycafe.com