Los Angeles' A-Frame All-You-Can-Eat Fried Chicken

A-Frame's all-you-can-eat fried chicken

There is no standard unit for an order of fried chicken.

Depending on where you're dining, you might end up with a bucket, a platter or a plate of battered bird. Anatomy could dictate your order, too: a half or whole bird; a profusion of wings.

Roy Choi thinks of fried chicken in two-piece units, a drumstick and a thigh, and he sees those two joints multiplying and stretching into infinity. Either infinity, or until 3 p.m., when A-Frame stops serving its new weekend-only, all-you-can-eat fried-chicken "picnics" (pictured; $18).

Fried to the nutty side of golden-brown, Choi's chicken has an impressive shell. The meat, which is cooked sous-vide before being battered and dipped in a hot oil bath, drips with juices, and has a slight buttermilk tang.

While you're working on that second piece, a server will swing by and ask if you'd like another order. Say "yes" at least once, because it's a beautiful moment, having another two pieces of fried meat set in front of you, the promise of another pair on the horizon.

Even with the tangy tonkatsu and creamy lemongrass dipping sauces, coleslaw threaded with zucchini, and sweet-potato salad, the meal isn't complete: The bottomless glass of Hite ($10) completes the picture.

A-Frame, 12565 Washington Blvd., Culver City; 310-398-7700 or aframela.com