Maui Express

The Majestic goes old-school with a pupu platter

Each summer, The Majestic gets tropical with a new menu of Hawaii-conjuring tiki cocktails.

This year, to complete the Polynesian vibe, chef Shannon Overmiller designed a retro Pupu Platter ($25) to accompany the drinks.

The giant circular platter make quite an entrance, with the five different options served in divots surrounding a flaming center. To minimize risk, each item is pre-cooked and ready to be toasted to a perfect finish over the fire.

Overmiller's selection draws from classic platters, but keeps things fresher than the cream-cheese-filled puffs of olden days. Giant spring rolls pack still-crisp carrots, cabbage, mung-bean noodles and mushrooms into a near-iridescent wrapper. It's best with a dip in the accompanying spicy Chinese mustard.

Beef teriyaki skewers alternate the bite-size portions with pineapple and red pepper. Wings are glazed with spicy scallion-ginger sauce, and are even better topped with house chile sauce; the chef also makes a coconut-marinated chicken satay. The most memorable bite may be the shrimp toast. Overmiller butterflies tail-on shrimp, stuffs them with more shrimp, then fries the lot over a slice of house-made baguette.

If you're dining with a group, pair the platter with a Wisdom of Pelé ($19.50), a giant and perfectly potent bowl of three rums, Falernum, cinnamon syrup, citrus and bitters.

The Majestic, 911 King St., Alexandria; 703-837-9117 or majesticcafe.com