Pizza Bianco

Michael White takes a load off at Nicoletta

Michael White's new East Village pizza parlor, Nicoletta, makes us want to say: Cool your jets, people.

Nicoletta serves pizza. True, it's stupendousā€“but White is a man, not a god, and a slice is not going to change your life.

Now, onto that ace pie: Thick without being doughy, crisp with lovely blisters and bubbles, this brick-oven crust is thicker (and way more filling) than any you've eaten during New York's current Neapolitan pizza reign.

Good thing, because this crust shoulders a mutiny of toppings: knockout rosemary-salted pork cracklings, wild arugula and porchetta ($21), and peppy cherry peppers, broccoli-rabe pesto, smoked cow's-milkĀ Scamorza cheese and spicy breadcrumbs ($19).

The pizza might taste like your mind's best memory of what you grew up on, but pollo all'aceto ($10), a confited and cheese-stuffed chicken thigh, breaded, fried and plated with garlic-blasted broccoli rabe ($10) is no prototypical buffalo wing.

Finish lightheartedly with soft serve fior di latte (cream) drowned in orange Fanta ($6). It's a drinkable creamsicle of lush proportions.

Nicoletta, 160 Second Ave. (at 10th St.); 212-432-1600 or nicolettanyc.com