The Bazaar By Jose Andres Is Splashy, Superb | Miami

You could dine at The Bazaar by José Andrés several times and enjoy an entirely different meal, thanks to the splashy restaurant's expansive menu.

One possibility: a superb dinner revolving around Miami's Eden-like fruit.

Begin with ajo blanco ($12), thin slices of mango enveloping sherry-tinged king crab. Then more mango: A fanciful orange sphere of the fruit is sharply paired with uni in liquid nigiri ($18); the dish could convert anyone suspicious of sea urchin.

Chef de cuisine David Thomas says the "gentleman with a shopping cart full of green coconuts" who wanders South Beach inspired the coconut rice with tamarind juice ($18). It's an aromatic mix of rice and supple cuttlefish, both cooked in water from the hollowed coconut in which the rice is eventually served.

Local oranges and briny capers check creamy bone marrow ($17), topped with Hawaiian hearts of palm.

To finish: mango tembleque ($12), a dessert with a texture similar to flan, merges the sweetness of coconut with lime zest.

Thomas, who cooked at Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc in Napa Valley, does not take his backyard for granted: "There's produce everywhere in California, but you can't find these flavors anywhere else domestically."