The Heart of It

Anticuchos and more at a new Peruvian BYOB

If ever there were a dish to convert beef-heart skeptics, it is the anticuchos at 4 Suyos.

At the casual Peruvian BYOB, which opened in January in Logan Square, hearts ($8) are marinated in vinegar, Peruvian beer and ají panca chile before a turn on the grill. They arrive at the table flame-licked and remarkably tender, with only the faintest hint of the organ's characteristic iron tang.

Owners Humberto Trujillo and Erin Slucter point to the provenance of the hearts as the source of their superiority: Slagel Farm. The farm's ducks appear on the menu too, as a roast-duck-and-rice special.

Pair the anticuchos with papas a la Huancaína ($7), boiled potatoes doused in a thin cheese sauce colored by ají amarillo (yellow chile), and a heaping mound of ceviche. Slivered onions, oversize kernels of soft Peruvian corn (choclo) and toasted corn (cancha) tangle with squid, scallops, shrimp and tilapia in garlic- and chile-spiked lime juice.

Or get both on the same plate, plus a handful of fried calamari, by requesting the off-menu ceviche de barrio, a mash-up of Peruvian flavors.

We wouldn't advise leaving without an oversize alfajor ($4), two buttery, crumbly cookies with a thick pat of dulce de leche in between.

4 Suyos, 2727 W. Fullerton Ave.; 773-278-6525 or 4suyos.com