Use Your Noodle

Get slurp-happy at Yusho's new noodle brunch

We knew there would be nary a pancake in sight when Yusho started serving brunch.

At the Japanese-inspired Logan Square restaurant, Sunday-morning starch is delivered in the form of noodles: a new prix fixe brunch ($20) that includes five noodle options, a cocktail (or house-made rhubarb-citrus soda) and a scoop of soft-serve–recently green cardamom topped with toffee and stewed rhubarb.

Maitake mushroom ramen is topped with what chef Matthias Merges refers to as an "angry red ball." Disperse the mix of shiso, red miso and chile flakes among the fried mushrooms and tofu to infuse each bite with herbaceous heat.

Yusho regulars will recognize the Logan Poser ramen from its previous appearance on the dinner menu. Chewy strands swim in a rich pork broth with pork shoulder, crispy pig's tail and pickled cucumber, its sharp acidity a welcome counterpoint to the unrelenting richness.

The cold soba noodles, however, have become our new brunch favorite. They're garnished with spicy, mayonnaise-like chickpea purée and crunchy slices of gobo (burdock root), served with a basket of fried chicken drumsticks on the side. The result is a wild, eye-opening ride of flavors, temperatures and textures.

Yusho, 2853 N. Kedzie Ave.; 773-904-8558 or yusho-chicago.com