Down on the Corner

Ignoring the calendar at The Corner Door

Brussels sprouts, many a child's most hated vegetable, have been vindicated.

Los Angeles chefs have moved beyond simply browning them in bacon fat to giving us dishes like Ink's lardo-draped half-globes tangled with fried pig's ears, or Freddy Smalls' fried sprouts doused in sticky reduced cider.

The Corner Door, the latest addition to what's quickly becoming Culver City's second restaurant ghetto, offers another fine addition to the brassica pantheon. But eating our favorite winter vegetable–cooked until nearly black and topped with crumbled feta ($9)–on the first night of summer felt wrong, delicious though it was.

We then ordered the browned sweet corn ($8), a lovely seasonal jump forward to high summer, the ears liberally doused with brown butter and covered in chile and fried-sage confetti.

Just opened and already packed, with the weeknight wait for a table nearly an hour long and barstools at a premium, The Corner Door's confused calendar doesn't seem to be bothering anyone but us.

And after our second Queen's Park Swizzle (pictured; $12)–made with rum, lime, mint and the bar's own strawberry bitters–and a bite of the tangy mushroom toast ($14), we stopped worrying about it too.

The Corner Door, 12477 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City; 310-313-5810 or thecornerdoorla.com