At All Hours

La Strada's snack spot has staying power

Del Ray never leaped to mind as a hotbed of late-night dining.

But Osteria 1909 is changing that.

The months-old lounge was originally opened as a warm-up for its now-closed Italian sibling, La Strada. Now the clever bar snacks, flatbreads and grilled mains–served until midnight–have made Osteria a destination all its own.

Start with deviled eggs. Crisp crumbles of prosciutto add texture to the fluffy green bites, which are made with a dose of garlicky pesto ($7). The same blend goes into the pesto Filantino panini ($9), a melting press of grilled mortadella, sharp onions and provolone on warm ciabatta.

For spice-crusted Tuscan pork ribs ($15), the cooks roll the meat in salt, black pepper and oregano, its heartiness complemented by tangy-sweet, wine-braised red cabbage.

Small bites currently include fried zucchini ($7) and mixed nuts ($5), but owner Steven Scott Jr. plans to add more creative shareable selections, including sausage-stuffed deep-fried olives, in the coming weeks.

Osteria also caters to early risers with an Italian-inspired weekend brunch. The kitchen stirs saffron into its smooth hollandaise sauce, adding a floral note to its Benedict-like dish of poached eggs and prosciutto over Italian bread (pictured; $10); the same striking sauce also appears on a dish of poached eggs with lobster salad ($15).

Osteria 1909, 1909 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria; 703-548-1212 or osteria1909.com