Savories for the Sweet

Craftsman and Wolves' sandwiches are as memorable as the pastries

Yes, the Rebel Within is back.

William Werner's most famous (or infamous) pastry from his Tell Tale Preserve Co. days, a muffin with a soft-centered egg in the middle, has reappeared at Werner's Craftsman and Wolves, which opened last Wednesday.

The pastry chef's financiers, toasted brioche with house-made preserves, and intricately composed cakes are as exquisite as his reputation warrants. But you can lunch at the pastry shop, too.

Both the sandwiches ($8), served on Werner's ciabatta rolls, are excellent. For the vegetarian option, the cooks press sweet, lightly roasted carrots into a cloud of fresh goat cheese, heaping cucumber slices and mizuna leaves on top. Werner pairs herbed, roasted pork loin with bacon on the omnivorous option, adding grilled squash and thinly sliced radishes to keep the sandwich from being a meat bomb.

Pickled carrots or cucumbers served with the sandwiches undergo a quick brine sous vide, leaving them crisp and glancingly acidic.

If you're stocking up for an afternoon in Dolores Park, you can order a picnic box ($14) containing a half-sandwich, a pickle, fruit and a petite cake.

Prevent your friends from poaching by tacking on a Rebel Within to share.

Craftsman and Wolves, 746 Valencia St. (at 18th St.), 415-913-7713 or craftsman-wolves.com