Giving Us the Bird

Wing Wings now fries the whole chicken

How dare he walk away from his most famous dish?

When Christian Ciscle opened Wing Wings, fans of the former Little Skillet chef's signature chicken and waffles may have been disappointed to find him frying only wings.

Ciscle used to appease those fans by offering the rest of the bird every Wednesday. That approach proved so popular that he has now added a fried chicken box ($8.50) to Wing Wings' permanent menu.

The box includes your choice of two pieces of breast, thigh, leg or wing, plus two small biscuits and a side such as coleslaw or macaroni salad. Considering the birds come from Fulton Valley Farms or Mary's, this is a deal the Colonel could never top.

Ciscle brines the meat for 24 hours to keep even the leanest corner of the breast juicy, then dredges the chicken in seasoned flour and fries the pieces until the skin crisps into a rugged, golden shell.

Though you can order one of Wing Wings' wing sauces to dunk your thighs in, Ciscle recommends a squirt of the sweet, tangy Moombah sauce, kept in squeeze bottles on the table.

The waffles? You'll never miss them.

Wing Wings, 422 Haight St. (at Webster St.); 415-834-5001 or wingwingssf.com