Meat Up

Green Pig Bistro goes whole hog in Arlington

Eating in bookstores is usually verboten, but it's encouraged in Clarendon.

Wallpapered with pages from The Joy of Cooking, the Green Pig bistro houses three glass-fronted closets filled with a globe-spanning cookbook collection that includes a rare edition of Auguste Escoffier's Le Guide Culinaire.

Early on, the kitchen is crafting a story of its own, serving an excellent Southern- and offal-focused menu. Red pepper jelly cuts gooey fried rounds of pimento cheese ($5). A trio of ox hearts star on Reuben sliders ($7). A miniature au gratin spills over with steaming fries stuck together with melted Tillamook cheddar and a deluge of duck-liver gravy. The kitchen adds extra intensity by dotting the spread with foie gras cubes ($6).

Burger patties are made with two parts beef and one part bacon, each topped with "secret sauce" and a melting square of hefeweizen-spiked cheese ($14).

The indulgences should not end there: The house donut is split and stuffed with peanut butter ice cream, then finished with a web of hot chocolate sauce ($8). If that seems daunting, add a touch of sweetness with a house-made soda ($4); the current best is the sweet, springy strawberry.

Green Pig Bistro, 1025 N. Fillmore St., Arlington; or facebook.com/greenpigbistro