Classic Tables: Ina's

Two decades of Heavenly Hots

Before Randolph Street was hot and before comfort food was cool, there was Ina's.

Ina Pinkney first opened her breakfast restaurant in 1991, after a decade running a wholesale bakery famed, in part, for its Blobbs. In 2001, she moved to West Randolph Street, and has been a neighborhood bastion for the past 11 years.

Pinkney's silky Heavenly Hots (pictured; $9.29) have been on the menu since opening day, and are revelatory. Made with sour cream and a bit of flour and potato starch, they're like blinis for the breakfast set. Scrapple ($9.79) is another standard, with cheddar cheese, black beans and corn suspended in spiced cornmeal.

Pinkney's vegetable frittata ($10) has its charming quirks too, packed with cream cheese and spaghetti. Brisket hash is a newer addition; potatoes and smoked meat from Smoque are crowned with poached eggs and served with the barbecue restaurant's sweet, tangy sauce.

Ina's fried chicken has a devoted following, as do her occasional gluten-free versions. Help keep the tradition alive by signing up now for the next gluten-free fried chicken dinner, on April 20.

Ina's, 1235 W. Randolph St.; 312-226-8227 or breakfastqueen.com