Mexican in Marin

El Huarache Loco has arrived

To avoid the disappointment suffered by a Marin mother of three who recently dined at El Huarache Loco's new Larkspur restaurant for the first time, we'll just get this out of the way: El Huarache Loco does not serve burritos.

Here, as at E.H.L.'s weekend stand at the Alemany Farmers' Market, the menu is filled with dishes popular in chef-owner Veronica Salazar's native Mexico City. They include the namesake huaraches ($7.50)–sandal-shaped masa boats filled with black beans and topped with nopales salad–and tlacoyitos ($6), tender blue corn cakes filled with Requesón cheese.

And while the restaurant is a fine home for these street-style snacks, the new space has afforded Salazar, who started in La Cocina's business incubator program, the opportunity to serve other homestyle dishes. Her luscious chicken mole ($10), its sauce bitter with chiles and chocolate, is cooked from Salazar's family recipe (click here for the recipe).

The restaurant may not serve burritos, but with a plate full of chorizo sopes ($6), al pastor tacos ($3.50) and crispy chicken taquitos accompanied by silky guacamole ($7), we're sure you won't miss them.

El Huarache Loco, 1803 Larkspur Landing, Larkspur; 415-925-1403 or huaracheloco.com