High on the Hogg

We have no bones to pick with Eric Park

Burgers and bone marrow can be found on nearly every dude-food restaurant menu in Los Angeles.

Having so many male chefs cook with these and other aggressively meaty ingredients has unfairly codified them into a culinary shorthand for masculinity. But dudeness sometimes outweighs cooking skill.

Eric Park, the chef at Silver Lake's new Black Hogg, is a man, but his assertively graceful food shows that he might not necessarily be a dude. Instead, Park treats the bro canon with smart, measured delicacy.

For beef bones, Park takes British chef Fergus Henderson's famous marrow-and-parsley salad as his muse, but Park's iteration (pictured; $10) has its heart in Silver Lake, not the St. Johns district of London. Cilantro dominates Park's salad and, naturally, the marrow is folded into corn tortillas. In such surroundings, each soft scoop evokes the flavors and texture of tacos al vapor (save for the charred tortilla).

We're obsessed with this marrow, but Park's menu is worth widely perusing. His burger ($17)–ground lamb topped with footy blue cheese–is excellent, and the uni-paved toast is, at seven bucks, a sea-scented steal for urchin lovers.

Black Hogg, 2852 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake; 323-953-2820 or blackhogg.com