Brooklyn Wok Shop's Upscale Chinese Take-Out | Williamsburg, New York

Universal truth: You live in New York; you need a neighborhood Chinese go-to.

We suggest you adopt Williamsburg's Brooklyn Wok Shop as your spot, even if you live far from Billyburg's hipster limits.

All your favorites are here: chicken with broccoli ($10.50; do add a fried egg for $1), luminous shrimp and pork shiu mai wonton soup ($12.50) and crisp orange beef over rice ($11.50).

These are the dishes you already know, but better. (And not tarted up as at RedFarm, Parm, Kutsher's Tribeca, Family Recipe, et al.)

Chef Edric Har is to thank for this time-honored takeout's gentle upgrade. Har himself can thank his good teachers at Le Bernardin, Veritas and Cru for his skillful training.

That heady pedigree means the beef in that orange beef is hormone- and antibiotic-free hanger steak; the flavor comes courtesy of an orange-peel-infused base, and the crunch comes from a careful double fry.

Har's time cooking Italian pasta shows in pliant egg noodles bobbing in a dramatic soy, star anise and cinnamon chicken soup ($11.50).

But it's Har's in-laws (who own two Chinese restaurants themselves) whom we thank for giving him the sense to leave well enough be with these Cantonese staples. Because when it comes to Wednesday-night dinner, familiarity trumps all.

Brooklyn Wok Shop, 182 N. 10th St. (between Bedford and Driggs aves.), Brooklyn; 347-889-7992 or brooklynwokshop.com