Four-Star Slices

Richard Reddington turns his talents to pizza

Just when we thought we were done with wood-fired pizzas, rustic pastas and handcrafted charcuterie, along comes chef Richard Reddington.

At his new Redd Wood in Yountville, the chef of nearby Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant Redd is doing what so many have done before–but doing it so well, it feels fresh.

The pies, topped with heady combinations like pork jowl, clams, garlic, oregano and Montasio ($16), and prosciutto cotto, Taleggio, red onions and Brussels sprouts ($14), are made by a familiar pizzaiolo: Liza Shaw, late of A16.

The menu changes often–now, for example, you can get potato gnocchi with braised duck, rosemary, black olives and pancetta ($15), or ribbons of pappardelle with Savoy cabbage and rabbit ($16).

And though house-made charcuterie is now as ubiquitous as bread and butter, when it's done like this–as with the pork-head terrine with pickled vegetables, mustard and slabs of grilled bread ($12)–we remember precisely how good it can be.

Redd Wood, 6755 Washington St., Yountville; 707-299-5030 or redd-wood.com