Earl of Sandwich

Bryan Voltaggio's best thing since sliced bread

Bryan Voltaggio, who put Frederick on the culinary map with his precise, multicourse meals at Volt, has gone to the opposite extreme with his new Frederick grab-and-go, Lunchbox.

The options connote an idyllic retro cafeteria, with no item costing more than $5. But if you care to create a coursed lunch, here are our suggestions:

Soup: Lightly frothy, the shiitake ($3) has deeply earthy tones balanced by the unexpected blend of roasted peanuts and an opal basil reduction.

Salad: Shredded iceberg hides crumbles of sharp blue cheese in the Wedge ($4), but the true treasure hunt yields smoky BBQ chicharrones in place of croutons.

Sandwich: They definitely didn't have this Pilgrim ($5) on the Mayflower. Warm, pressed seven-grain slices are glazed with cream cheese, then orange-cranberry compote. Thinly shaved sage-seasoned turkey completes the mini Thanksgiving.

Soda: The cooler is full of classic small-label pop options, but pull out a rooty McCutcheon's sarsaparilla ($2).

Dessert: A repurposed candy rack is piled with baked goods, including a large, not-too-sweet chocolate chip cookie ($2.50).

Takeaway: Finish with a free crisp green apple, sourced from a local orchard.

You've earned your course credits.

Lunchbox, 50 Carroll Creek Way, Frederick; 301-360-0580 or voltlunchbox.com