We'll Always Have Papilles

A throughly Parisian table in Hollywood

Strip malls aren't simply eyesores.

These common units of Southland commerce can be transportative, too. Stepping through the door of a restaurant located in one takes you to many a far-flung corner of the world.

And we have a new portal to introduce you to: Tucked next to a Pilates studio on Franklin is the door to the newly opened Papilles. To step inside moves you from Hollywood to Paris. There's a cutting board with a crisp, half-sliced baguette next to the cash register, and the wine bottles lining the walls are there for the drinking.

Owner Santos Uy modeled this thoroughly charming spot after such celebrated Parisian tables as Frenchie and Bistroy Les Papilles. Uy and chef Tim Carey offer a three-course dinner each week ($35) that balances French influence with California produce.

Chaperoned by a walnut-inflected bottle of CĂ´tes de Jura ($44), we ate cold-smoked trout, mushroom soup, sea bass with satsuma, and blanquette de veau. The veal showed Carey's deft skill at revision: The stock used to cook the meat was enriched with cream and then shot out of an iSi siphon, blanketing the veal in the thick, savory sauce.

Tonight, Carey is serving cassoulet. You'll have to fight us for a table.

Papilles, 6221 Franklin Ave., Hollywood; 323-871-2026 or papillesla.com