Good Cheer and Churros

Say hola to La Churreria

You feel having like a salad these first weeks of January, you say? Too bad.

With the opening of La Churreria, Jesús "Lolo" Manso is bringing a smoking-hot fresh batch of carbohydrates into your life.

Manso, the Iberian chef behind Socarrat Paella Bar and La Nacional, has brought his childhood memories of paper cones overflowing with churros to life at this Nolita storefront.

Take a heaping bouquet of the skinny flour-water-salt-fried squiggles to go ($3 for five; $5 for 10; or $7 for 15), or stay and dunk them over and over again into a pudgy cup of dark chocolate ($2.50 and $4.50)–more pudding than liquid, really.

Ridged and sugar-dusted with the lightest hand, these churros are the quieter cousin to Mexico's bombastic cinnamon-sugar-crunch variety.

Don't stop the carb fest at the churros. There are excellent sandwiches in three categories: Breakfast Rolls; Bocatas, served on baguettes; and pressed and toasted Bikinis. The Trio ($7) layers jamón Serrano, creamy cow's-milk mahón tierno cheese and membrillo for a suitably salty-sweet experience.

Our favorite is the calameres fritos ($9.50). Calamari rings are fried, tossed with an extra-garlicky aioli and piled onto sharply crusted bread. The specialty harkens to the bars that surround Madrid's Plaza Mayor and specialize in the sandwich.

It's a mouth trip to Spain.

La Churreria, 284 Mulberry St. (at E. Houston St.); 212- 219-0400 or lachurrerianyc.com