Ramen Misoya | St.Mark's Place, New York City

Ramen gets Parmesan snowbound

Snow ramen is here to ensure that you'll play in powdery drifts this winter, whether the weather obliges or not.

While other ramen spots throughout the city rely on pork's mightiness, the newly opened Ramen Misoya makes a case for umami-rich red, white and dark-brown miso broths.

Sadly, the ramen chefs here are buried in the basement, but the presence of a flat-screen TV in the dining area allows for Big Brother-style ramen peeping while your meal is being prepared.

Deep earthenware bowls emerge from a dumbwaiter and are heralded by a happy ding each time a bowl arrives.

The winter special Snow Ramen (pictured; $11) heaps gently grated Parmesan on top of red Hokkaido-style-miso-enriched broth. Wedges of skin-on potato and yellow chiclets of sweet corn are tucked in among the springy noodles. And on top sit two lavish pats of butter quickly diffusing into the steaming broth.

Giving the noodles a quick stir turns the "snow" into slush, and renders the soup uncommonly sweet, nutty and extra-rich.

Looks as though we've found this year's winter chowder.

Ramen Misoya, 129 Second Ave. (at St. Mark's Pl.); 212-677-4825 or misoyanyc.com