Sophomore Effort

Terrific seconds at the Smith, Veselka and Terroir

As a city, we seem to be embracing what we already adore. A case in point is the recent succession of sister restaurant openings, which has brought double the access to old favorites, with some new touches thrown into the mix for good measure:

The Smith: Best aspect of the new Midtown location? It's pretty much exactly like the Smith East Village, but with a raw bar. The subway tiles, convivial atmosphere and sexy unisex bathrooms are all here. Settle into the scene with a plate of battered and fried greens beans ($9) at the high communal table. 956 Second Ave. (at 51st St.); 212-644-2700 or thesmithnyc.com

Veselka: This location is now closed. A blond wood interior and massive windows set this location apart from its East Village brethren. But the real excitement here is the new main courses, especially the sized-for-two smoked pork hock ($26). Perfectly pink, it shreds easily onto a pile of waiting braised cabbage and onions. 9 E. First St. (near the Bowery); 212-387-7000 or veselka.com

Terroir: Technically the third of its siblings, this spot fills a much-needed gap in Murray Hill. Zero in on the "Murray Hill Classics" section of the menu for a French Dip ($12). Its salty slices of beef, sweetly caramelized onions and Swiss cheese on a baguette rightly call out for a drink. 439 Third Ave. (between E. 30th and 31st sts.); 212-481-1920 or wineisterroir.com