Loi Restaurant | Upper West Side, New York City

Where to take the fussiest of guests

'Tis the season–for out-of-town guests that is.

We know ours can be pretty picky: Spots that don't take reservations, personal-space pressing crowds, far-flung locations and eardrum-splitting cacophony are all off the table.

With that in mind, we present the just-opened Loi on the Upper West Side and the many reasons why it's a prime destination for persnickety guests:

1. Comfort: Just steps from the 72nd Street and Broadway subway station and close to Lincoln Center, the location is a boon for guests not inclined to take a trek before tucking into fat and flaky triangles of phyllo pie ($12). Tables are spaced with breathing room in mind, and chairs have the holy trifecta of backs, armrests and padding.

2. Cachet: Former farm girl, self-proclaimed Grecian "Martha Stewart" and current food star Maria Loi is a Greek food game changer. Her empire includes television shows and cookbooks; plus, her presence brings palpable good cheer to the room.

3. Chef's Rooms: If you need extra quiet, privacy or just more space to accommodate your family's kookiness, there are three private rooms that seat between 6 and 44 people.

4. Chow: Dishes of oven-baked gigante beans ($10), whisper-light moussaka ($19), sea urchin slicked onto spoons ($12) and rich wine-braised rooster over egg pasta ($24) are simple and reasonably priced. They're ideal for all tastes, but delicious enough for anytime dining (with guests in tow or not).

Loi, 208 W. 70th St. (between Amsterdam and West End aves.); 212-875-8600 or restaurantloi.com