Dog-Friendly

An Alameda spot that has gone to the haute dogs

Time was, a dog was just a dog.

That was before New York City's Crif Dogs, before Anthony Bourdain endorsed Vancouver's Japa Dog, back when eating tube steaks was confined to ballparks.

The haute-wiener trend has now made its way west, taking root in Alameda at a little space called Doggy-Style Hot Dogs. While the name of the place might be lowest-common-denominator humor, the creative array of sausages is first-rate.

You can go American classic, selecting an all-beef hot dog and topping it with the classic duo of ketchup and mustard ($4). But why do that when you can instead order the Dogzilla, a bratwurst piled with cabbage slaw, crisscrossed with wasabi mayonnaise and teriyaki sauce, and finished with a snowdrift of julienned nori?

Dogzilla ($6) is merely one of eight specialty hot dogs on the menu. The Fiesta ($6) is a hot dog topped with pico de gallo, cilantro mayonnaise and crumbled tortilla chips; the Kimchi Pyro ($6) is a beef-and-pork hot link paired with kimchi, spicy mayonnaise and slices of Persian cucumber.

Even if you steer a tamer course, choosing a chili-cheese or Chicago-style dog, the juicy sausage and plush sesame buns ensure this is no common frank.

Doggy-Style Hot Dogs, 1234 Park St., Alameda; 510-521-5555 or doggy-stylehotdogs.com