Jack of All Trades

Climb above Pearl Dive to swanky Black Jack

If a hoard of hungover chefs invented the ultimate cure-all sandwich, it would likely taste and look very similar to The Earl at newcomer Black Jack.

The racy red lounge, which sits above Pearl Dive Oyster Palace and hosts an indoor bocce court, features an all-star bar menu that complements the creative craft cocktails from brothers Ari and Micah Wilder.

Roasted green chiles and garlic-anchovy purée add layers of heat to grilled shrimp pizza ($13). The coyly named D.O.C.B.S., a basil-topped margherita pie ($13), pokes fun at stuffy Neapolitan competitors with local tomatoes and house-made buffalo mozzarella.

Share a plate of stacked nachos, which look like little chip-based sandwiches encasing bite-size heaps of duck confit and rosy barbecue sauce under tangy avocado-tomatillo salsa ($14). In place of ketchup, an order of fries ($6) appears with tubs of dilly pickle-juice aioli, cayenne dip and warm marinara sauce.

As for The Earl ($13), chef-owner Jeff Black towers seemingly endless strips of crisp, glistening Benton's bacon with tomato, lettuce and cayenne aioli on toasted ciabatta. It's excellent with beer or the gingery Blue Vein cocktail ($11), but we foresee its true value in day-after recovery.

Black Jack, 1612 14th St. NW (at Q St.); 202-986-8778 or facebook.com/blackjackdc