Big Bottom Market In Guerneville

When Big Bottom Market in Guerneville opened in late July, it filled an instant need in this recreational paradise.

For us, though, the shop's deli might be the best attribute of the upscale grocery and wineshop, named after Guerneville's 1860s nickname.

There are sandwiches, beer, loads of local wine and essential dry goods to stock weekend houses (fancy salt; fancy olive oil). But the kitchen's standout item is the Sea Biscuit, sold only on Saturday and Sunday.

The sandwich ($9) is a glorious, fluffy-crumbly cheddar-and-thyme biscuit, topped with smoked trout, crème fraîche, pickled onions and capers. The biscuit recipe was created by co-owner Crista Luedtke's grandmother and is so tightly held that the owners have considered having the Big Bottom chef sign a nondisclosure agreement.

Biscuits are a specialty of the store–in addition to the trout version, they're also available accessorized with fresh seasonal berries and house whipped cream, smothered in vegetarian gravy, or "sloppy," as in joe.

Eat too many, however, and the shop's name may be more apt.

Big Bottom Market, 16228 Main St. (at Armstrong Woods Rd.), Guerneville; 707-604-7295 or bigbottommarket.com