Brazil by Way of Italy

Bay Area pizzerias with a Brazilian side

When you think about neighborhood pizza joints, you probably don't think about Brazilian food. Still, though the Brazilian domination of the Bay Area's pizza scene is allegedly rooted in immigrant coincidence, a handful of local pie shops have semi-secret menus of Brazilian dishes. Skip the Hawaiian and head South.

Twin Peaks Pizza Though the Brazilian owner recently stopped serving Brazilian pastries, a bright salad studded with hearts of palm ($8.50) hints at his heritage. Twin Peaks Pizza, 1681 Church St. (at 29th St.); 415-695-9200, twinpeakspizza.com

Cybelle's At this spot in Daly City, you'll find the pizzeria standards–pies of all types, spaghetti and meatballs, calzones. But flip to the back page of the menu and you'll hit pay dirt: A page of Brazilian specialties, like frango a milanesa, a breaded, lightly fried chicken breast served with black beans and Brazilian rice ($11), or the Friday special, rabaca de vaca, aka braised beef oxtail ($12). Cybelle's Pizza, 2985 Junipero Serra Blvd., Daly City; 650-755-6070

Mozzarella di Bufala At the West Portal location of this mini-chain, the menu includes Rio de Janeiro's signature dish, feijoada, a smoky black-bean stew loaded with pork and beef, topped with sautéed collard greens and farfofa, toasted yucca flour ($15). It might not be a stuffed crust, but it sure is good. Mozzarella di Bufala, 69 West Portal Ave. (at Ulloa St.); 415-661-8900 or dibufala.com