Affogato Dessert Makeovers

The affogato gets a makeover

The affogato has become a much-beloved dessert on local menus recently.

Formally named affogato al caffè (meaning swimming or drowning in coffee, depending on how morbid your outlook), the simple treat traditionally consists of a scoop of vanilla gelato with a shot of espresso poured over. Three spots have developed smart twists on the Italian summer favorite.

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Hawker Fare At James Syhabout's new Oakland restaurant, featuring brilliant takes on Southeast Asian street food, the kitchen brews a potent Thai coffee (a mix of coffee, chicory and dried corn kernels), then floods a swirl of house-made condensed-milk-flavored soft-serve with it. 2300 Webster St. (at 23rd St.); 510-832-8896 or hawkerfare.com

Ippuku Befitting its Japanese menu, Christian Geideman's Berkeley yakitori and shochu dining bar offers a bowlful of vanilla ice cream swimming in matcha, the bright, brothy Japanese green tea. 2130 Center St. (at Shattuck Ave.); 510-665-1969 or ippukuberkeley.com

Piccino For its affogato, this Dogpatch café offers a choice of two ice creams, both sourced from Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous down the street: chocolate chip or Pink Squirrel. The latter, inspired by the eponymous 1960s cocktail, is lively with Crème de Cacao and Crème de Noyaux. 1001 Minnesota St. (at 22nd St.); 415-824-4224 or piccinocafe.com

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