Chicken Little

A fried-chicken master earns his wings

Christian Ciscle knows chicken.

After leaving Little Skillet last year, he's returned to his poultry post, opening a new Lower Haight spot where the focus is on chicken wings.

At Wing Wings, the free-range bird is sourced from Pitman Family Farms. Fried to order and doused with your choice of eight house-made sauces, the wings are available in orders of five ($6), 10 ($10) and 25 ($23). We especially like the Wing Wing sauce, a mixture of soy, molasses, rice vinegar, chile, garlic and ginger, but you might opt for Buffalo, available in regular or hot, or a coating of sweet mustard.

That decided, consider add-ons, like chopped garlic (50 cents), chicharrones ($1) or bacon ($1), and extras, like blue cheese, ranch dressing or rémoulade (50 cents each). Skip the sides, but don't overlook the sleeper Wing Wings hit, the chicken salad on a flaky biscuit ($3).

The best time for eating wings is either while watching a sporting event or late-night, so we hand it to Ciscle, who keeps his joint open until midnight on weekdays (closed Tuesdays) and 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

Will wings replace a Rosamunde sausage as the post-Haight-bar-crawl snack of choice? Only time will tell.

Wing Wings, 422 Haight St. (at Webster St.); 415-834-5001 or wingwingssf.com