Opening the Door

Todd Humphries' post-Martini venture

At Todd Humphries' new restaurant, Kitchen Door, a casual addition to Napa's Oxbow Market, the menu reads like a greatest-hits compilation drawn from a dozen different food cultures.

You'll find a lahmajune flatbread ($14.50) topped with spiced ground lamb and a salad of seasonal greens, cucumbers, tomato and a zesty yogurt-harissa dressing, that nods to the Armenian original.

A shaved celery salad with chunks of Gorgonzola, dates and candied pecans ($7) is at once refreshing and rich; it's one of the most satisfying salads of recent memory.

Korean-style short ribs ($14) make an appearance, as does Humphries' take on a Vietnamese banh mi, a luxe assemblage of house-made duck liver pâté and shredded duck leg meat, brightened by pickled vegetables ($13).

For fans of Italian food (by way of Jersey), there's an eggplant Parmigiano, the nightshade first charred over wood before being layered with roasted peppers, tomatoes and mozzarella ($14).

And devotees of the now-shuttered Napa favorite Martini House, where Humphries cooked for nine years, will happily recognize some old favorites, including the now-legendary cream of mushroom soup ($7).

The digs might be new, the pantry may have expanded, but Humphries' food is as good as ever.

Kitchen Door, Oxbow Public Market, 644 First St., Napa; 707-226-1560 or kitchendoornapa.com