Pete's New Haven Style Apizza - D.C.

Pete's prepares pizzas for meat fiends

Pies from Pete's New Haven Style Apizza have always made waves.

Since the opening of its first location in Columbia Heights, the Connecticut-inspired pizzeria has elevated delivery pizza, particularly thanks to the New Haven, a garlicky blend of Chesapeake-sourced clams and oregano over bubbling Pecorino Romano.

As the pizza chainlet spread to Friendship Heights and its new outpost in Clarendon, the menu also grew to include a naked tomato pie ($15) and expanded toppings of cured meats and sausages, including the spicy sausage and soppressata that mingle with spears of bitter broccoli rabe on the new Wooster Square ($25).

The flavors of the Metro North ($25) marry two favorite food groups, piling a slow-roasted pork dinner on a thin crust. Sweet caramelized onions and snips of thyme offset hefty chunks of the tender pork, as thin shavings of house-made pancetta dissolve with each bite and small tufts of ricotta balance the pancetta's salty cure.

Pete's new pies get to the meat of the matter.

Pete's New Haven Style Apizza, 3017 Clarendon Blvd., Arlington; 703-527-7383 or petesapizza.com