Sugar High

Creative desserts at the new NoMI Kitchen

The dessert menu mentions peanut nougat, strawberry sorbet and whipped yogurt.

But the truth about this dish, crafted by Meg Galus, the new pastry chef at the newly revamped NoMI Kitchen, is this: It's a peanut butter and jelly sandwich dressed in a seemly disguise.

Galus' dessert is the classic combination at its most sophisticated, with crushed peanut toffee, fresh Klug Farm strawberries and strawberry sorbet, tufts of vanilla sponge cake, and candied peanuts. A curl of strawberry purée, dried until translucent and crisp, crowns the composition ($9).

Her rhubarb soup (pictured; $9) is doubly refreshing, both as a light, vibrant finish to a meal and as a welcome alternative to the fruit's most common treatment, in which it's roasted into sugary oblivion. Silky ginger-lemon marshmallows bob in the fuchsia consommé, a long-simmered, vanilla-scented rhubarb broth.

Galus, who worked at Tru and Café des Architectes, is adept at pleasing the masses, and her five desserts are accompanied by a daily selection of simple tarts ($10)–recently blueberry-lemon-hazelnut, strawberry-yuzu and chocolate-espresso.

All are well-matched by the superb tea list, featuring one of the biggest selections of Rare Tea Cellar teas in the city, including our go-to, a delicate magnolia-blossom oolong ($6).

NoMI Kitchen at the Park Hyatt, 800 N. Michigan Ave.; 312-239-4030 or nomirestaurant.com